About Anti Icky Poo Odor Remover – Product Description

Learn more about Anti Icky Poo odor removers

Anti Icky Poo speeds the natural process of organic waste and odor removal, its most unique characteristic should be mentioned; the bacillus is a unique bacteria which converts the waste directly into carbon dioxide, a safe odorless gas found in everyday clean air.

Cultivated and grown specifically for Anti Icky Poo is unique in that its cell wall is surrounded with a “slime layer” or coating. This protective coat allows the Anti Icky Poo bacteria to survive and multiply, even after the treated areas become dry (relative to the air), in addition, Anti Icky Poo products coat thermally protects the microbe in a range of (minus) -10 degrees to about 240 degrees F. sluggish at cooler temperatures, and it survives a premature death in order to complete the job when it warms. Anti Icky Poo coating helps protect the cell from previously applied disinfectants, or medicinal antibiotics that may have been released with the urine. These and other harsh conditions as found in carpeting are certain death for any unprotected Bacillus Subtilus.

Shelf-life is two years, although we have had occasion to use Anti Icky Poo pet urine, odor, decay and waste remover products about three years old with no apparent loss of potency.

While protected from extreme conditions, Anti Icky Poo is ideally suited to wetness, warm room temperatures and a good deposit of urine, but with advanced, high-tech microbes survive and multiply under conditions where other odor removal products are unsuccessful.

Anti Icky Poo Odor Remover Products live through wide a range of temperatures, dryness, even residual antibiotics or previously applied disinfectants as well as other inhibitors. These features are unique to the product bacterium.

Other important Anti Icky Poo additives, its nutrients, selective free enzymes, stabilizers and other components are designed to promote and enhance bacterial activity. Anti Icky Poo initial treatment may produce increased odors when contamination is severe and full of naturally occurring bacteria. But, with dominant, rapidly multiplying bacteria will increasingly produce odorless carbon dioxide rather than obnoxious odors. After two to five days the foul waste, decay or pet urine odor will diminish rapidly and job will be complete.

Anti Icky Poo is principally used to eradicate urine, waste and its odor. Urine contamination is a common and stubborn problem that cannot be resolved with conventional cleaning methods. Urination can result in significant damage. Contaminants, combined with relentless bacterial activity, tend to decompose any material. Over a period of time surfaces will become irreversibly stained and permanently damaged.

Anti Icky Poo Material Safety Data Sheet / MSDS

1. How are Anti Icky Poo products different from other products?

Many of the products on the market are designed to trick people into thinking it has fixed the problem by covering up the problem. Just because you can not smell it today does not mean the problem is gone. Carpet Cleaners, masking agents, disinfectants, bleach and other products are temporary fixes. When using these products you will typically notice the smell coming back to stay after 1 to 2 weeks. Many other enzyme and bacterial products on the market today fail because they are destroyed by previous applications of other chemicals or they are poorly blended enzymes. All enzymes or bacterial products work, but not many of them work well or last long enough to complete the job. Anti Icky Poo Bacterial solutions are resistant to many chemicals and designed to double the microbes every 20-30 minutes under ideal conditions until all the urine is gone. Anti Icky Poo P-Bath Should be used in cases where many chemicals have been used, if you are not sure what has been used previously or in any case where quaternary disinfectants have been used.

2. Why is urine so difficult to remove?

When urine is allowed to dry and remain in the carpet or other material, it begins bonding itself to the fibers. The longer it is allowed to remain, the stronger the bond becomes. Proteins (chains of amino acids) physically bond to the fibers while other portions of the urine crystallize into salts, forming ionic (electrical charge) bonds. At this point is has become impossible to completely remove by cleaning alone.

When these mishaps occur the urine quickly saturates the face yarns and puddles on the carpet backing. Any excess then soaks through the backing into the carpet pad. Given the average carpet / pad thickness and levels of absorbency, ½ cup of hot urine will penetrate clear to the sub-floor beneath and spread into the circular pattern nearly a foot wide. Recurring urination in the same area tends to spread these hidden spots into ever-widening circles, contaminating more of the pad, sub-floor, and backside of the carpet.

What is Urine
Animal Versus Human Urine

3. Why does the odor get worse over time?

The composition of urine is complicated. Think of any combination of substances previously ingested: water, fish heads, and mice bones etc. all of which contain many elements.

Some of the parts are transformed by the body into yet other identifiable compounds before a watery elimination. For our discussion we will address the parts of urine referred to here as “organic wastes”; those parts of urine that decay.

The process of decay results in bacteria consuming the waste while converting it in to gases. It is nature’s way of getting rid of it. Organic wastes are a natural source of food for bacteria. While feeding on these wastes the bacteria produce obnoxious vapors, releasing primarily ammonia, sulfur and methane gases in various combinations which we perceive as bad odor. Put yet another way, what our noses perceive as an obnoxious odor is in reality bacterial excrement.

Ammonia is the principle gas produced from urine decay. Chemically alkaline, the increasing presence of ammonia causes the ph to rise steadily. This in turn inhibits bacterial growth and the natural process of decay. While preferring a balanced, neutral PH, Bacterial growth slowly continues nevertheless, gradually producing even more inhibiting ammonia and malodorous gases. In this loop it can take Mother Nature several years to remove the odors source. Simply stated, when it comes to urine naturally occurring bacteria eat very slowly, but other than that have no table manners at all!!

4. What are ENZYMES and BACTERIA?

Enzymes are very specific in that some break down only fat, while others carbohydrates, proteins, etc. Some 10,000 specific types have so far been isolated and cultivated: more are discovered almost daily. While an enzyme is a non-living molecule, a live bacterium cell can do nothing with its food supply unless first prepared by enzymes for bacterial consumption. In other words, enzymes alone cannot remove the wastes without the help of living bacteria, while the bacteria in turn need help from the enzymes. In this natural process, both enzymes and bacteria are required and have to work together in order to remove the wastes .

“Enzyme” is a common description referring also to the more costly products containing cultured bacteria spores in addition to enzymes. The thought of “Bacteria” is frightening to many people, therefore the word “Enzyme” is normally favored over the more descriptive term, “bacterial/enzyme”. Some products sold contain only free enzymes intended to assist the bacteria already present, while others have only bacterial spores. Any of these products are commonly, and perhaps more politely, referred to as “enzymes” The bacteria growing in your urine contaminated carpet can be pathogenic or not. That is, any of several species can be present and multiplying, some of which may bear disease. All sorts of bacteria and bacterial spores (eggs) are present in nature and in our bodies. Most are friendly toward us while others are not. For example, our eyes would be glued shut with dried mucous were=2 0it not for some friendly microbes. Our digestion system could not work without them. Bacteria help make bread, cheese, yogurt and a host of other foods. There are many safe uses and our bodies need them. For the most part, bacteria as a whole have gotten a bum rap since we could not live for very long without them.

Bacteria are a multitude of microscopic simple, single-cell life forms called, singularly, bacterium. Bacteria grow when a bacterium matures, dividing into two identical “sister” cells. Growing in “colonies”, countless numbers of bacteria are required to remove any amount of organic wastes. They must multiply continuously and extremely vast numbers are essential.

To give you some idea, magnification 30,000 times is required to view a single bacterium. “Tiny” is non-descriptive. In this microscopic world an average puddle of urine is about the same size as the Atlantic Ocean for you and I. Put in this perspective, how many of us do you think it would take to swallow the Atlantic Ocean (and vaporize the results)? Try to estimate the number of people it would require! On the upside, a bacterium can mature and divide very quickly, and

Bacterial activity produces needed enzymes in the process.

Bacteria approved for your purposes, the Bacillus Subtilus, is essentially a sewer bacterium. It was selected because it only feeds on decay and is considered “non-opportunistic” – “Friendly”, if you will. All bacterial/enzyme products licensed for restoration work contain strains of this sub-species. Safe but very sensitive and vulnerable, Bacillus Subtilus cultures grow well only under ideal conditions . Moreover, the bacteria have high moisture requirements and will not survive unless submerged in a flooded environment – a very definite drawback for any application outside a sewer or the laboratory.

5. Why does the smell seem stronger after I first treat?

Until you are familiar with Anti Icky Poo bacterial products you yourself may be a problem. Many people, new to Anti Icky Poo products are understandably skeptical. They begin dumping other products; including deodorizers, disinfectants, or other masking agents into mix prematurely. This only slows the process, or worse, may even kill the Anti Icky Poo bacteria. Patience, please! If the odor temporarily gets worse-that is good! Simply mist or spray more Anti Icky Poo Bacterial solution to counteract the increased odor. Within two weeks the urine will be gone.

6. Not enough product!

A problem we encounter with those that are new to Anti Icky Poo is that some do not use enough of the product for satisfactory results. There is so much urine contamination over an extended period of inappropriate elimination that you can quickly use up a small supply, and there is a tendency to skimp when low.

We welcome and encourage your feedback and are willing to assist you with technical advice. Anti Icky Poo products always work and are completely guaranteed. Once you are convinced it works and gain confidence in its effectiveness make sure you have enough product on hand to treat effectively.

7. Are Anti Icky Poo Products safe for the environment?

Anti Icky Poo products are compatible with nature; therefore it is safe in sewage systems and elsewhere in the environment. Anti Icky Poo products are NSF approved safe, however it should not be taken internally. Read label for instructions.

8. Do Anti Icky Poo products work on stains?

In most instances we achieve complete removal of urine stains, but some problems have less than complete success in this area. There are many elements in urine including inorganic, from natural dyes and minerals. Anti Icky Poo products can be guaranteed to work only on the odors. Once the crystallized salts and the protein /fiber bond is reduced or eliminated any inorganic compounds can be cleaned out using a carpet cleaner (after the complete removal of the urine with Anti Icky Poo products approximately 2 weeks).

Urine, once dried, always attacks native dyes. This is not always apparent in full-spectrum light, but can be seen under a black light in a darkened room. Under a black light, the surface yarns will appear devoid of urine. These areas usually show lighter than the native dyes, while untreated urine glows a dull yellow. Remember the nose always knows if there is still urine there.

9. What is P-Bath and do I need it?

Anti Icky Poo P-Bath should be used to neutralize any disinfectants, or when many chemicals have already been used.

P- Bath Is a pre-treating conditioner that prepares the contaminated area for increased efficiency of Anti Icky Poo Bacterial Products. It is used to bathe urine contaminated areas before treating with Anti Icky Poo bacterial products.

10. Why Inject?

Urine penetrates deeply into absorbent materials. As it dries, the water evaporates leaving behind an

Aggregate of organic and other components that soon crystallize forming a multitude of “salts.” In effect, the dried salts form a barrier to any liquid you may later try to introduce. Unless you are able to gain

Access to contaminated fabrics from both sides; the most positive, effective way to treat dried urine is by injecting directly into the contaminants with a high-quality bacterial/enzyme digester.

“Flooding” the area from the top is easier but is a poor alternative to injecting for the following reasons:

The salt “plug” resists penetration from the top and most of your bio-chemical will tend to seek the course of least resistance, soaking into areas previously devoid of urine. Unless there is adequate penetration into the plug, the effectiveness of your treatment will be diminished.

To treat by flooding wastes costly biological products unnecessarily, and spreads a dilution of urine into an ever wider area, contaminating that as well.

In carpeting, the bulk of urine is normally underneath and permanent staining is more likely to occur when over-wetting the area. More of the urochrome, a natural dye found in urine, can flush to the surface and deposit on your face yams.

Understanding Carpet Construction :

The vast majority of carpet is “tufted” with the face yarns woven in a “backing.” The backing consists of two layers, the primary from which the face yams, or pile protrudes, and a secondary layer that provides overall additional stability. Latex-type glue binds these layers together to form the carpet backing.

This type of carpet usually has foam padding installed underneath to lend more comfort and give it that cushy feel. The pad is highly absorbent. Together, the carpet, pad, the tackless strips that hold it in place, and even glues or staples when used in the installation, are correctly referred to as, “Carpeting.”


Hot urine, having soaked through the carpet backing, quickly saturates the pad, spreads in a widening circle and penetrates through to the hard floor beneath where, given enough volume, it spreads even farther. A mere 1/2 cup in volume, say, the hot urine deposited from a 40 Lb. dog, goes clear to the hard floor where It spreads into a circular area nearly a foot in diameter. Additional “accidents” in the same spot spreads the urine farther yet. The absorbency of the pad soaks up excess liquid depositing more to the carpet backside contaminating the secondary backing everywhere it touches.

Recurring urination in the same area can cause extreme problems, even with the smaller animals and particularly in the case of cats. Cats prefer “going” near walls or in corners (they feel less vulnerable during elimination). Whenever we find cat urine having spread a foot or better away from walls, we can assume that it has pushed through the tackless strips and penetrated under the wall. Unabated, this condition continues spreading, wicking the contaminants up inside the wail affecting everything in it.

We have had to remove the outer layer of a wall six feet up in order to gain access to the urine inside due to wicking action from the floor level. In another instance, not only had cat urine permeated the walls, the condition was discovered only when urine dripped into a common garage area beneath the structure.

These unfortunate conditions and hundreds more have been treated successfully using our products and specially developed techniques, and with permanent results. Treatment of carpeting is relatively easy with some effort and a little patience. Follow our instructions and remember; this first rule of deodorization:

“Remove The Source Of Odor.” Our digesters, coupled with these tested methods, do just that.

11. How to inject?


CAUTION: You must use great care when handling a sharp needle! You can easily puncture your flesh ! These needle are normally packed in sterile condition-of course, once used in stale urine decay, a severe infection could result. In the event you do jab yourself it is recommended you visit a doctor immediately and receive a tetanus shot! Disassemble when not in use . Store away from children.

Locating Urine:

Unless you know the locations and the extent of contamination, it is unlikely you will be able to treat your odor problem effectively. Once located, and properly marked off, you are half way there.

The four basic tools used for urine detection are listed In the order of their effectiveness:

Your nose (sniffing can pinpoint contaminants in an Instant)

EUS (a sharp tipped, Electronic Urine Sensing device that squeals when encountering urine)

UV light (ultraviolet, or black light, that fluoresces the minerals contained in urine)

Your eyes (urine on carpeting is not always apparent in full-spectrum daylight)

A complete discussion of these tools, their relative advantages and their shortcomings, can be found in the

Manual,” Professional Users’ Guide “.

Injecting Carpeting:

Determine the extent of contamination under the carpet and mark the area off with masking tape. These areas are nearly always circular in shape, but the size of the areas will vary considerably, sometimes with puddles overlapping one another.

You should have ready a spray bottle of our enzymatic digester, a larger container of the same, and a shallow bowl in which to pour. Drawing the liquid from the bowl is the easiest method of filling the injector.

Assemble your Injector and draw the digester through the needle into the syringe. Starting about four inches inside your markings, pierce the carpet backing with the needle and lift the tufts slightly with your other hand. Slide the needle=2 0in horizontally between the secondary backing and the top of the pad.

Push one ounce, or 30 cc’s, into the void. Repeat the procedure each four to six Inches, grid fashion, throughout the contaminated areas until satisfied that you have adequately covered it all. You can expect that one ounce will cover four to six Inches in diameter depending on density of the fabric and thickness of the pad. Generally, you will have to refill your injector many times.

Using your spray bottle, cover the face yarns well and walk around on the entire treatment with your full weight In order to spread and squeeze in the good stuff. When white foam from the digester appears up through the carpet backing beneath your feet, you will know that you have achieved good penetration.


This process occurs continuously as urine crystals are digested. During evaporation moisture has to move to the air in order to vaporize, thereby, working some undigested urine to the surface, as well. While it does continue working for you, the dry air slows the enzymatic process. Leave your masking tape in place so that you do not get lost later, as you will need to retreat the face yams several times over the course of a week or two so that all of the urine disappears uniformly. Once treated underneath, you will not have to retreat by injection. Initially, increased odors could occur; this condition should dissipate within five days.

When you are satisfied that the urine is gone, remove your making tape markings. Under normal circumstances and unless the carpet is otherwise soiled or stained, further cleaning is rarely necessary.